Given that everyone with access to the internet can post their opinions or poorly researched articles, it’s tough to determine true and false information about dog behavior. Too often, folks rely on shared knowledge from family and friends, who base conclusions (that you’re relying on to keep your family safe) on one dog they’ve known, a story they heard from a co-worker, or a tragic tale they read online.

Our canine companions and two-legged loved ones pay if we’re not comparing facts or looking to scientific sources to prevent scary situations.

Read on for two myths that are commonly shared to prevent dog bites and well-founded ways to keep your family safe.

Myth Buster #1: There are no dangerous breeds.

I could tell you that I live with a dog who looks like a breed often labeled as “dangerous” and that he’s the sweetest, smushiest being I’ve ever met. I could also tell you that while two dogs who broke out of their backyard attacked us that Gavin laid there, helpless, rather than attacking back. And I could also share that my dog has volunteered with 100s of school children and hospice patients, all of whom loved him for his gentle, affectionate nature—all true.

However, I’m telling you there is no dangerous breed because I formally studied animal behavior, alongside world-renowned experts, when I obtained my master’s degree. I’ve worked with more than 3,500 dogs since 2001. And I’ve met dogs of every breed that wiggled and jiggled and I’ve also met dogs in the same breed family who scared me so badly that it took days for my nerves to recover from fear.

When we label a dog dangerous because of his breed, purely based on head, ear, or body shape—nice dogs die every minute because people overlook them in shelters. Sure, there are aggressive dogs in shelters, but often dogs are barking as you pass them because they desperately need attention and mental stimulation, that shelter volunteers can’t always provide. And these homeless dogs are locked up in a loud, strange place, with only a cold concrete floor to sleep. Once those dogs have a safe, warm home and appropriate exercise, many of them relax and become amazing family dogs.

Labeling a dog dangerous doesn’t prevent bites. Monitoring a new dog’s behavior, slowly introducing your dog to family and friends, and praising and rewarding him for making good choices, maintaining relaxed body language, and not cowering or tensing in real-life scenarios will prevent dog bites. However, not giving a dog space who’s exhibiting warning signs or allowing a toddler to corner a trembling or growling dog will put you and your family in danger, no matter what breed, color, shape, or size.

This leads to a horrible side effect when we label some breeds as dangerous. By default, a dog who’s not that breed is automatically considered safe. What then happens is Breed A isn’t left alone with your child, because you read somewhere that dogs who look like him are conditioned to hurt people. However you deduce that it’s ok to keep Breed B in the same room with your toddler while he’s chewing on a bone because Breed B isn’t on some dangerous breed list—Breed B is fluffy, Breed B is the same breed of dog you had growing up, and he never bit anyone.

Every dog is different. Assuming a dog is safe because his physical characteristics are similar to your childhood dog puts the people you love in potentially dangerous situations.

It takes an entire year to know an adult dog, to really understand what makes him happy, scared, defensive, or none of the above, so practice common sense. Reward your dog when you walk towards him and his bone and praise your dog for any relaxed body language on walks, even if a child is two blocks away.

Myth Buster #2: It’s not always how you raise dogs.

Yes, puppies have development periods, and the more positive experiences a puppy has as he’s maturing have long-term effects on his behavior. A puppy who’s had a traumatic or scary experience around children at five months of age is more likely to develop fear-based behaviors towards children than a puppy who’s been introduced to one child at a time, at a pace that keeps him carefree.

However, dogs are intelligent, emotional, and social creatures. I’ve met countless rescue dogs that softly lean into the first person that offers a loving lap, even after being neglected and abused for years. And, I’ve seen homeless dogs with horrible scars indicating they’ve been attacked by other dogs yet, they play bow and wiggle for new dogs they meet in controlled, thoughtful introductions.

Again, the key is to use common sense. You don’t bring home a dog with an unknown history or a terribly sad past and just let him loose with your resident dogs, hoping for the best. You let them sniff each other through a fence (at a distance and butt first). You walk them together. You traipse around in large circles, on a leash (how dogs not seeking conflict approach each other) without physical contact in a neutral area—always watching body language before getting one inch closer to each other. For some dogs, the acclimation process may take weeks and months before you’re ready to let them off-leash (no toys, food, or other valuable resources), but it’s worth the time to keep your precious pup safe and not send a dog who’s already experienced trauma and abandonment back to the shelter.

Every dog is different. Give your rescue dog time to take in the smells and sights of his new home before any face to face introduction, people, or dog.

It may seem easy to consider a dog unsafe based on his looks or to assume puppies can’t develop behavioral issues (another myth for another day). However, once you see low-level stress signs and give your dog more time and space to acclimate to his world, you can’t unsee these subtle behaviors that will keep everyone safe.

What’s more adorable than a puppy dressed as a skunk or a stuffed cowboy riding on your dog’s back? For some dogs, it’s the appetizer on a miserable menu that Halloween dishes out. Read on to find out how much (if at all) your dog should be included in Halloween hubbub.

To dress up or not dress up.

While you’ll likely get many likes on the photo of your gussied up pup, it’s not for every dog. Many dogs dislike all the gear and gadgets (often bulky or physically restrictive) involved in elaborate costumes. However, some dogs LOVE dressing up. Every dog is different, so watch your dog’s body language. If his mouth tightens, his posture appears hunkered down, or he lays on the ground with sad puppy eyes, it’s unfair to leave the costume on him and even worse to laugh while he’s silently begging you to remove the distressing duds.

If you’re unsure, start with minimal attire like our friend Indy. His bow tie, cufflink ensemble, is super cute, and he looks like he’s ready to join the party rather than collapsing into crestfallen costume condition. You may also notice that Indy isn’t wearing a top hat or fancy glasses. A lot of pups dislike objects on their face or head. Think before you dress up your dog to make sure his disguise is just as fun for him as it is for you.

The bottom line, if your dog looks miserable, take off his costume.

The masking effect

Once a year, your pup is exposed to people wearing imposing paraphernalia covering their eyes and causing them to move erratically, evoking confusion and fear to even the most people-pleasing pet. When your neighbor’s child wears a large hat or mask, her silhouette changes—she’s no longer the same person to your dog. So, to assure everyone has a happy and safe Halloween, grab some treats and train your dog to like ghoulish gizmos. Put on your jumbo sunglasses or clown wig and reward your dog for remaining wiggly. Play a Halloween sound on your laptop (low volume) and reinforce your pup for relaxed body language.

Often when I coach folks to desensitize their pups to sights and sounds that might scare them in an unfamiliar place or with an unknown person, their response is, “I tried it, but he didn’t do anything, so I stopped.” Why would you stop? You’re not training your dog to run, cower, or tremble when you put on a unicorn wig. You’re teaching him to relax when someone he knows and trusts dons a Medusa headdress, so when a stranger wears the same costume, it’s less scary.

Spend five minutes a day creating positive associations with Halloween garb, so your pup is less spooked.

Trick-or-treat

In dreamland, it’s a grand idea to include your dog in trick-or-treat festivities, but, as I’ve already mentioned, costumes can be downright unnerving to dogs so, a parade of masks, hats, glasses, and devilish duds coming at your dog may cause horrible trauma. Not only are you asking him to endure endless eerie ensembles, but groaning, creaking, and rattling lawn decorations make trick-or-treating extra terrifying for fearful pups.

If you choose to keep your pup at home, someone should stay home with him, ensuring he feels extra safe. For some dogs, kids galore at the door incite the SOMEONE’S HERE response over and over again, so plan to make sure your precious pup doesn’t escape—one second of sidewalk stirring could send him scurrying into the street.

For the specially scaredy dogs (especially if you can’t stay home), it’s best to put a nice note on the door asking neighbors not to ring the doorbell. If you leave a basket of candy for trick-or-treaters on the front porch, you’ll prevent your pup from getting roused up every two seconds and still be a good neighbor.

Help your fearful or anxious dog by staying home and preventing commotion that may scare him.

While Halloween is fun for many humans, please keep these tips in mind, so your hound’s holiday isn’t a harrowing experience.

After a long day at work, all you want to do is relax with your dog, right? Some dogs are happiest when snuggling on your lap while you binge-watch your favorite show. However, many dogs need help calming down. Here are a few tips to help your tireless dog rest when you need to unwind.

Make sure you’re meeting your dog’s mental and physical needs. Too often, folks expect their dogs to chill out when they return home from work when their dogs have been alone, often sleeping, all day. Unfortunately, that’s an unfair expectation. For some dogs, a neighborhood jaunt sufficiently provides what they need to nap while you eat dinner and catch up with your partner. However, some pups need a much longer walk, a hearty game of fetch or tug, or training. Tricks, games, and exercise are great ways to burn energy AND have fun with your dog, so he’s more likely to sit around with you.

Teach your dog to relax.

Some dogs don’t naturally know how to relax—they always need to be doing or into something. So, it’s your job to teach your insatiably curious canine how to do nothing when you need it most. For your busy-bee dog, practice the Do Nothing Game, so he gets rewarded for, well, doing nothing (a variation on Sue Sternberg’s the Nothing Game).

Step One: Grab a handful of non-smelly treats (broken into teeny tiny pieces) and your smartphone. Pull up the clock application on your phone and click on the stopwatch. Next, start the timer and place your treats behind your back. If your dog is not barking and not jumping for five seconds, say “yes” and treat him. Repeat at the ten-second mark, repeat at the 15-second mark, and continue for one to two minutes.

Step Two: Assess your dog’s capabilities. Was Doing Nothing for five-second increments easy for your dog? If yes, then begin treating at the ten-second mark and in ten-second increments the next day. If the exercise was extremely difficult for your dog, use less exciting treats, and treat him in two-second increments. Now you see why I suggested TEENY TINY treats, don’t you?

Step Three: Increase your dog’s time to Do Nothing, based on his personality and capabilities. You’re not in competition with anyone, and every dog is different. If it takes an entire month for your dog not to dance around, not tap his paws, not nudge you, and not bark for ten-second increments, it’s time well spent because you’re teaching him to do what you want—relax.

The longer it takes for your dog to learn this game, the harder it is for him to relax, and the more important it is for you to practice.

Be proactive before you sit back.  If you’ve had a crazy day and can’t walk or train your endless energy dog, give him something to occupy himself before you sit down for the night. Providing a hearty chew (supervised, of course) or a frozen Kong prevents begging for attention, chewing up shoes, and barking at every neighbor who passes your home. If you’re giving your dog many bones and toys to prevent naughty behavior, please revisit the first section. Your dog may need more mental or physical exercise.

Never reinforce unwanted behavior.

One of the easiest mistakes to make is sitting on the sofa, ready to relax, and your dog barks, so you grab a bully stick from the pantry to occupy him. Unfortunately, giving a chew toy at that moment will reward your dog for barking. Don’t wait for your dog to act out to give him a busy toy. Give it to him as a preventative tool before you sit down, and before he barks.

Not all dogs love relaxing and napping. However, you can teach your perpetually peppy puppy to hang out with you without always needing something to do with practice.

Many dog problems arise from one main issue—lack of impulse control.  Your dog sees another dog across the street, leftover dinner on the table, a squirrel running up the tree, or a child tossing a ball at the park, and he MUST HAVE IT. Whether your dog is pulling, jumping, or grabbing what’s not his, it’s embarrassing and potentially dangerous.

Teaching your dog or puppy to “wait” will prevent a trip to the emergency room because he devoured a chocolate bar from your purse or chased a critter into a busy street, pulling you along with him.

Here’s how to teach your dog to pause when he wants something.

STEP ONE: Start with the most boring treat possible. If the treat is only mildly appealing, your dog will more likely understand that “wait” means wait. Hold the treat over your dog’s head and if he’s not jumping, not barking, and not grabbing the treat from your hand, say “yes” and give your dog the cookie. Repeat the exercise using the same treat a few more times.

STEP TWO: Use a more appealing treat OR ask your dog to wait longer for the same treat. For dogs to succeed, you can’t increase two aspects of difficulty at the same time. You’ll confuse your poor pup. By increasing the value of the treat separately from requiring a longer “wait” time, your dog will understand what you want MUCH quicker. Repeat this step every day for at least a few days.

STEP THREE: Ask your dog to “wait” for everything he likes: walks, food, couch time, toys, and play. If your dog loves walks and jumps around like a wackadoo when you’re trying to get outside, don’t wait until you’re opening the door to ask for a “wait.” Give the cue as you walk towards the door, “yes” and grab the leash if he’s still calm (this may mean kinda sorta composed, tranquility takes time for some dogs). Grab your keys if he’s not jumping around. Say “yes” and place your hand on the doorknob if he’s not squealing and nipping your arms. To your dog, every movement you make indicates he’s going outside. Use your interactions to encourage good behavior, and you’ll not only have a better behaved dog, but you’ll use less treats teaching him to be a good boy.

Avoid common mistakes. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had friends show off their dog’s best trick by placing a treat on the ground and saying “leave it, leave it, leave it.” Then, they tell their dog “ok” while I stand there wondering how confusing it must be for the dog. First, the treat was forbidden, then the treat wasn’t forbidden.

Use “leave it” for items that are always off-limits, and “wait” for permitted items.

The second issue I commonly see is folks practice “wait” with treats and food but not with other life rewards. If you’re not practicing “wait” at the door, your dog is not going to learn to calmly, patiently wait at the door. If your dog is too excited or you lack the patience to train “wait” at the door, practice AFTER a walk or playtime in the backyard. If your dog is tired, he’ll be more likely to await instruction before walking through the door—saving time and frustration.

The last unwritten rule: Don’t make your dog work for something he hates. If you have a hard time getting your dog to eat, it doesn’t make sense having him “wait” for dinner. You’ll only add social pressure to a situation where your dog is already struggling. Your time is better spent placing his toys in a closet and having him “wait” before you initiate a tug or fetch game. And, remember “wait” is not “sit.”

You’re looking for calm, polite behavior before you give your dog what he wants. If you practice “wait” throughout the day, your dog will learn patience, even when he sees something he REALLY wants.

Trust—a tiny word that means so much. Trust is the reason you can confidently walk out of the room for a couple of minutes while your ten-year-old nephew is playing fetch with your dog—or not. Trust and training can save your dog’s life when you feel the clasp of the leash break and see your pup race towards the street. And trust is why you don’t worry when stick your hand into your dog’s mouth to retrieve a dead bird.

Trust goes both ways, and you can lose it in an instant. Here are simple ways to keep your dog’s trust.

Watch closely: Dogs frequently communicate aversion and unease. But too often, well-intending people ignore their dog’s pleas. Dogs are faster than humans, and situations get serious very quickly. Running away and hiding are very clear signs that a dog is trying to avoid a situation. Snapping and growling are your dog’s way of saying, “KNOCK IT OFF, NOW!” Unfortunately, if you overlook your pup’s appeals, he may stop saying “please” and use his teeth to convey disdain.

Don’t wait for your dog to bite. If your dog is communicating his discomfort, stop forcing the interaction. And get training help.

Predictability: Life is stressful and chaotic for you. Imagine how difficult it can be for your dog to process all the noise, movement, and change in his day. Ensure your dog has a happy place or enjoyable activity that he can rely on every day, no matter what.

Some pups LOVE and need their walks. Other dogs prefer learning their cozy blanket is a safe haven away from loud guests. In contrast, other dogs enjoy busy activities like pattern games. Try different approaches to see what makes your dog merry at the moment, then softly settle himself when the exercise has ended.

Don’t wait for your dog to be pacing and panting during a thunderstorm to start his routine. That’s unfair, and your dog will fail. If you were visiting a country where you don’t speak the language, you wouldn’t wait until your plane landed to start learning the vernacular. Short, daily sessions are key to show your dog that he can count on you.

Your dog trusts you. Preserve his trust. Consider what he’s communicating and give him stability. He deserves it.

How many times have you griped about your neighbors’ off-leash dogs?

And how often do you rant on social media about the clueless person who continually brings their biting, snarling pup to the dog park?

We’ve all been frustrated by random acts of jerkiness in the city, especially when it negatively impacts our dog’s training or well-being. But no one is perfect. Before you judge that person on the street, triple-check that your neighbor would not mumble “what a jerk” when walking away from you and your pup.

Here are three tales to tuck away in your mind before your next walk.

A story of awareness: A few times a week, I see a woman walking her hyper, seemingly-friendly, VERY vocal dog. And EVERY time Gavin and I encounter the pair—the woman STOPS walking while her dog stares at us BARK! BARK! BARKING!

I’ve never talked to my fellow dog guardian. She has no idea the trauma Gavin experienced a couple of summers ago nor the anxiety we’ve overcome this year. I try not to fault her, but her staring, barking, lunging dog frightens Gavin. Whenever I see her, I run-walk in the opposite direction.

Recently, Gavin and I were hanging out at the park. And this woman came walking HEAD ON at us, in the corner of a field. I was super confused. She HAD to have seen me go out of my way to avoid her over and over again. Gavin and I were hanging out in a tranquil, tiny section of a HUGE park. The woman had ACRES of space to walk her dog. Leaning against a fence, Gavin and I had no escape.

The woman walked closer and stopped. SHE stared at me, and her dog started lunging and barking. Gavin looked up at me with his “oh crap” eyes. I said, “Ma’am, if you just give your dog more space, it will be much easier for everyone.” I wasn’t rude, nor did I want to be. Thankfully, she walked away.

We have to remind ourselves daily that our dogs are our responsibility. And we have to pay attention to others. If a fellow human being looks like she is trying to avoid you and your dog, be respectful. Maybe the person is allergic to dogs. Perhaps she was attacked. Maybe she had a bad day and wants you and your dog to leave her alone.

Responsibility tale: Lucky (a dear client’s beloved pup of six years) adored dogs so much that she moved to a neighborhood with MORE dogs. On a walk, she saw a man and his two dogs. She noticed the man tighten his dogs’ leashes, so she gave the trio space by moving Lucky into the parkway to pass them. Despite her efforts, the two on-leash dogs brutally attacked Lucky. Her once happy-go-lucky dog lost an ear as she desperately tried to pull the dogs off her dog. After that, Lucky barked non-stop and panicked when anyone passed them from the moment they left her apartment building until they came back home. It was awful.

But the trauma wasn’t all Lucky and his loving mom experienced that day.

The guardian of the two dogs yelled at her, “WHY DIDN’T YOU CROSS THE STREET? I HAVE TWO DOGS! YOU SHOULD HAVE KNOWN BETTER!” He filed a police report citing that the attack was her fault. Lucky’s mom wanted to focus on nursing her dog back to health, emotionally and physically—not defending herself to the police.

The decent human response would have been, “I’m sorry. I’ll pay for your veterinary bills. Here is my contact information. Oh, my goodness, I’m so sorry that one of my dogs ripped off your dog’s ear.”

Fortunately, our not-so-Lucky four-legged friend is doing MUCH better, thanks to tons of love and a mom committed to his training. But the whole ordeal would have been easier for Lucky’s mom if the man had taken responsibility for his dogs’ actions.

Sometimes we try and fail story: I have a tale about a woman who probably thinks I’m a giant jerk. I tend to walk Gavin during the morning school rush hour—partially because of my schedule, partly because Gavin loves people. Kids, parents, teachers stopped to pet Gavin, as they often do. Lil’ Big Head was SO EXCITED. I’m sure he thinks all the people are there for him, and only him.

Gavin was oblivious, gleefully prancing along the sidewalk, hoping every person who approached us would ask his favorite question before continuing on their path. And I wasn’t quick enough…

The woman walking in front of us grabbed her son’s shoulder and walked further into the parkway to get away from us. I started to cue Gavin to walk closer to me, but she was walking slower than I anticipated. When Gavin turned towards me, as asked, his whip-tail grazed the back of the woman’s shin. I apologized as it was happening. I tried to be respectful of what I thought she wanted from us. But Gavin’s tail is 17 inches long, and I misjudged the moment.

The woman gave me a death glare over her right shoulder that still makes me shudder. I could have yelled at her, as we all see happen on the street ALL the time. My guess is, that would have just made the woman angrier with me and certainly wouldn’t have increased her affinity towards my dog. It wasn’t Gavin’s fault. It was mine. So, after apologizing (ad nauseam) while I walked away, I vowed to do better next time.

Look up, friends. Let’s all do our best not to be called a “jerk” today. We all have to share the streets.