Dog Behavior – Page 2

Escape as a Reward

Before Lil’ Big Head stole my heart, his rescuers found him tied to a stake outside and shot with a BB gun. I can only guess that his trembling and flattening onto the sidewalk like a buttery pancake the first few months he lived with me were due to a pretty tragic past.

I worked hard to teach Gavin that he could trust me to protect him from all the scary sounds of the city, and he’s been bouncing through my neighborhood for almost three years now. If you read my blog a couple of weeks ago, you know Gavin’s ABSOLUTE TERROR when he hears a jet zooming through the sky has rebounded. When you share your life with a cowering canine, you know the acute repercussions that one surprise SCREECH from a garbage truck or the grumble of a low flying airplane can have on your beloved dog.

When the world is too ghastly to bear—dogs like Gavin refuse treats, and petting doesn’t soothe SOME pups. What a shaken dog wants MORE than anything is to GET AWAY from whatever is causing his misery at the moment.

Why not use escape as a reward?

If you flee with your ‘fraidy fido at JUST the right time, you’ll find that your pup will begin to offer more brave acts and, most of all, that he can depend on you. The latter will remind your dog that you’re a team and his champion. It does take a bit of finesse to use fleeing instead of treats. If your dog starts trembling or pees an ocean, you’re moving way too fast.

Every little bit counts

I worked with an amazingly sweet lab mix. I’ll call him Bubba. His fear of going on walks was so profound that when we first started working together if I put my hand on his leash (forget about clasping the leash to his collar), he peed SO MUCH on the rug that I thought we might have to call in an expert to name a new lake.

So, I got the leash out before I asked him to army crawl out from under the bed, another big boy skill he worked hard to learn. And I sat with the leash behind me and moved my hand an inch or two towards it. If Bubba didn’t pant or turn his head, I said “yes” and rewarded him.

I watched Bubba CLOSELY, to make sure he wasn’t even close to running away, crouching, or flattening his ears. After a few repetitions, not 10 or 20, of super-plucky-pooch-behavior (for him)—I made a big deal about the leash going away. I wanted Bubba to know that I wouldn’t push him—that I saw how hard he worked and how difficult that task was for him. And with patience and practice, when Bubba saw me grab the leash, he ZOOMED around the living room—SO PROUD of himself.

Don’t be a pusher

When you have a dog who’s behavioral response is so intense that he stops moving and his panic-stricken eyes rip your soul to shreds—especially in areas where you have no control over petrifying triggers—you build courage by working on the behavior in a safe environment, in tiny doses. And compassion is critical. During your ten-minute training sessions, your pup needs to understand he’s out of danger. Humans LOVE to push, we do.

Your goal when you’re training with scary stimuli is to end the session with your dog WANTING more. Playing an airplane sound on YouTube at the lowest volume possible may not feel like much to you. But, it’s a CRAZY big deal for some dogs. And unfortunately, right now, when you go back out into the unpredictable world, those same triggers will still cause emotional havoc for your fur babe. Teaching bravery takes time.

Real-life applications

In the real world, escape is an amazingly powerful reward. Gavin and I’ve been darting all over Albany Park. The key to doing this correctly is, first and foremost, DON’T race away from the wicked fire engine when your dog has frozen in his tracks and is looking around at anything, except you. If your dog’s fear has caused all physical capabilities to stop completely—he could get hurt if you try to cross the finish line to safety briskly.

I know that the sound of dogs barking from inside their house is a source of stress for Gavin right now. So, if I hear a dog yapping and take a glance at Gavin to make sure he is still relaxed, chill, even happy, I say “hurry,” and we run past their house. My sweet Lil’ Big Head flies with me when I say this, and he smiles his charming, googley eyed grin, because I gave him exactly what he wanted and needed, space from what scares him.

Did you notice I didn’t say that I KNOW he heard the dog barking? He’s a dog, he heard it before I did.

Patience pays off

Is Gavin completely cured? No. But with every “what’s that” and treat when I can catch unnerving noises early enough, pause when he really needs it, and moving faster past howling-hound-houses, we’ve made great strides in the past few weeks. And Lil’ Big Head trusts me when it matters most.

******Don’t use this technique with an aggressive dog in a highly populated neighborhood or busy day. Running gets dogs charged up. If your dog is already leash reactive, moving quickly is going get him more fired up. An over-aroused dog who then sees a trigger that under normal circumstances causes lunging, barking, or growling is a BAD combination. ******

Anxiety

Any human being who’s ever experienced panic attacks or an acute anxiety episode knows that symptoms like trembling, inability to concentrate, accelerated heartbeat, labored breathing, sweating, consuming restlessness, involuntary paralyzation, and/or an intense need to flee are serious. And, when you’re in that extremely debilitating state of mind, it’s unlikely you’ll be easily coerced or talked out your suffering.

What if, then, your most trusted friend (the one you counted on to protect, love, and show you the ropes in life) shoved you around, forced you to perform for their attention, and stood hovering, chanting orders that you’ve never heard? Would that ease your troubled mind?

Unfortunately, when we attempt to assert ourselves and use popular interpretations of “dominate” in the name of training, we only make unwanted behaviors more frequent, and often, much worse.

Here are a few tips to keep in mind about anxiety and how you can help your dog.

Change is a big trigger for anxious behavior. Like humans, some dogs are naturally more anxious. If your beloved dog already has nervous energy or frets about mealtime changes caused by daylight savings, he’ll likely struggle with a new person in the house, a move, schedule change, or dramatic rule changes. Even positive alterations can send your dog’s understanding of what to expect from you and his sense of security into a behavioral frenzy.

My dearest Finn moved with me many times and took countless road trips, stayed in hotels, motels, friends, and families’ homes, and always did it with a beaming smile. Because, before the journey, we took a long jaunt. And, the instant I dropped my bags inside the door, even before I unpacked, we took another long stroll. Finn absolutely adored his walks. They were a predictable part of our routine. I knew traipsing through any new environment would help him settle into the novel space with ease.

And, I always took Finn’s favorite dog bed, giving him a familiar place to rest (when he wasn’t stretched out on my bed) gave him a safe space in unfamiliar surroundings.

Remember, even if the life change is good for your dog, it’s an adjustment. And, he needs a consistency remnant or two in routine. Multiple changes in a short amount of time require even more thoughtful, proactive interactions to help your dog understand the addition isn’t a vexing switch, even if your dog loves your boyfriend or girlfriend who just moved in.

Gentler is better.

I recently met a lovely couple who’s adorable chihuahua Frankie exhibited new and really unsettling fear aggressive behavior, including biting the man he’d known (and loved) for over a year. Their research led them to militant training techniques, and in no time, their sweet dog’s aggression worsened.

Frankie offered oodles of anti-conflict behaviors during our session when I approached (from a far distance) his treasured bed, one of the areas triggering aggressive displays. I watched Frankie’s body relax when I stopped moving towards his bed. His face softened when I let him take small steps into my space, at his comfort level, rather than abruptly touching or moving towards him.

It may sound dramatic but the darkness and weight lifted from everyone’s face and their entire home. Frankie’s parents are nice people who didn’t want to bully their furry best friend. They were desperate.

We also learned that, despite advice they’d read, Frankie downright hated the additional walks they were taking him on to tire him out (hoping that would improve his behavior).

Please remember, not all dogs enjoy walks, even less so when they suffer from sound sensitivity or stranger danger and live in a busy neighborhood. Adding mental and physical stimulation can absolutely help build a dog’s confidence, but it doesn’t have to be a walk outside. With every head drop, retreat to his mom, yawn, and tongue flick that Frankie offered when I pulled out his harness and leash, it was clear to me that walks were actually adding tension to Frankie’s family situation.

Not all behaviors can be drastically altered in a short amount of time. Frankie’s mom emailed me a few days after our session to tell me that focusing on exercises to build his confidence, playing inside games to burn anxious energy (instead of taking him on walks that he didn’t enjoy), and teaching him good things happen when they go near his resources, rather than taking them away to show him who’s boss, was much more aligned with who they are as people and let them see the dog they knew and loved again.

Patience. Alter plans. And, more patience.

I worked VERY hard after Gavin and I were attacked on a walk to make sure he had tons of good doggie interactions. And he surprised me. He waltzed through the neighborhood wiggling his butt, smiling at every school child who remarked, “oh, he’s so cute!” and never veered from his obsession to chase my neighbors’ trees, despite being an uber-sensitive little dude. Lil’ Big Head once avoided the kitchen for a month because I dropped a spoon onto the floor while I was cooking, nowhere close to him.

However, the number of dogs in our neighborhood has tripled in recent months. Gavin started digging his heels into the sidewalk and blinking his eyes whenever he heard but didn’t see a dog barking from inside their home. The behavior came to fruition pretty quickly one day, when we were still about ten blocks from our condo. I noticed his face. The subtle change wasn’t his usual “I-wanna-go-play-fetch-the-OTHER-way” halt.

Gavin looked miserable. His head hung low, ears back, and true panic on his big, block-headed face. I bent down to let Gavin know I would protect him. This tactic always relaxes Lil’ Big Head when he’s a teensy bit nervous. But, he completely turned away from me and laid down, then looked up at me with such a helpless expression that my heart shattered into pieces onto the sidewalk.

Gavin loves his Chuck-It balls. But, I knew, at that moment, he was what trainers call “over the threshold,” and nothing was going to get him moving. So, I scooped him up and carried him. As soon as I did, he planted a kiss on my cheek, and his whole body relaxed in my arms.

Drivers slowed to watch us as I walked, carrying my 65-pound, muscly, aesthetically tough-looking dog.

And, after about 100 feet or so, I put him down to catch my breath, and he bounced along next to me like the world was right again. We’ve been doing pretty well since that day with a new herbal supplement, relaxation protocols, Thundershirt, and timing our walks, so we see lots of people (the more school kids, the more excited Gavin is to move), and using his Chuck-It balls as a reward for being a big, brave boy.

None of those solutions was a panacea, and we weren’t completely back to his carefree self on walks, but Gavin wasn’t so stressed when walking that I contemplated calling my vet to rule out any medical issues.

One day this week, we had the perfect storm of events working against us. Gavin had a late play date with his buddy, Homer. So, he was too tired to get up for the morning rush hour. And, the velcro on his Thundershirt rubbed his no-fur chest and shoulders, causing some irritation, so I had to leave that part of our strategic-dog training package at home. After he played fetch, we moved along beautifully, and he heard an airplane that caused him to pause. I grabbed my second Chuck-It toy and laid it a few feet in front of him to keep him going into full MAYDAY mode.

But, because Gavin’s slobber had saturated the ball, it slipped out of my hands as I went to pick it up again to encourage him to keep walking. Once he had BOTH balls, he laid down. I knew waving my arms around in an attempt to get him moving and rapidly repeating, “come on, come on, come on,” appears anxious to most dogs, and would only harm the progress we’ve made in the past week.

So, I scooped him up again and carried him. Thankfully, there were no cars around. Because I realized when I passed a large window that we were both wearing bright, Barney-purple colored fleece jackets. So, it likely appeared that I purposely dressed myself to match my dog.

Gavin and I both collapsed when we arrived home. And, since then, I’ve made new alterations, adjusted our route, and thankfully, we’ve had a few walks that everything about Gavin’s body language tells me that my happy-go-lucky boy is still in there. We’re on the right path.

Anxiety is a very serious behavioral issue and not a choice for our precious pups.

Identifying the cause and developing individualized solutions is a science that many dedicated and passionate training and behavior consultants spent years cultivating. I’ll be kind and patient with my fragile boy to reduce his anxiety, will you?

Grey Eyebrows and a Puppy Belly

It’s no secret. We have a soft spot for senior dogs. And, puppies. Well, and any dog in between.

Anyone who’s blessed to share their life with a senior dog knows there’s a language, a secret code, that you develop with each other over the years—a vernacular that no one else in the world understands.

And, the fantastic four-legged soul who’s rested their beautiful head on your lap during so many of life’s ups and downs has taught you important life lessons like compassion, patient, and responsibility.

Senior dogs are special. They’ve seen your worst bad hair days and still love you.

Some distinguished dogs would love sharing their homes zippy puppies. However, for some aging animals, it can be the worst decision for you and your dog. Read on for necessary do’s and don’ts to assure you give your salt ‘n’ pepper pooch precisely what he deserves during his precious twilight years.

Do’s of Doing Right By Your Senior Dog

Sometimes folks consider a puppy because their senior dog is mourning the loss of his canine companion.

Please accept our sincerest empathy tears. The infinite gorge left in our hearts when our revered dog leaves this world is a wound many of us know too well. And, we’d not wish that anguish on our dear, sweet dogs who often display grief by becoming despondent and disengaged.

Only consider introducing a new furry friend if your dog has had other doggie friends besides the darling dog he’s grieving. Some dogs have one or two canine pals in their entire life, and that’s it. So, be kind to yourself and your sad sweetie, really think about whether a dog with a completely different personality and energy level would be a welcome addition to your home.

Consider adopting an older dog.

Not only are many rescue dogs VERY dog friendly, but adult dogs have very different ideas of how rough and how long a play session should last than a five-month-old-pup does. And, while we absolutely respect responsible breeders, many are too far away to allow your resident canine a chance to meet his new roommate until the day the puppy comes home.

All the rescue organizations we work with require a meet ‘n’ greet to assure it’s a canine match made in heaven for BOTH dogs. And, who knows, you might even meet a mutt who makes you fall in love with a different breed or mix of breeds, even if you’ve always been drawn to one type of dog.

Give the puppy lots of crate time so your older dog can rest.

Even if both dogs are grinning, play bowing, and continually pressing the start button on spirited play sessions, your older dog will be very happy with some down time. To prevent the puppy from fussing because he’d prefer to play 24 hours a day, give him a Kong with a super scrumptious filling, in his crate. Just be sure your senior dog gets a brimming Kong too, in another space, to prevent scuffles over resources.

Set up training sessions to teach the puppy to respect the older dog’s space and to give both dogs the opportunity to learn that it’s FUN to share attention.

Relying on everyday situations and habits to create the relationship you want between your two best friends can easily backfire. Teaching ‘wait’ and ‘gentle’ with LOW-VALUE TREATS, practicing attention, and rewarding for not bombarding each others’ space, is vital and will pay off for years to come.

Spend one on one time with your senior dog.

Puppies are so stinkin’ cute. But, don’t let the shiny new whirling dervish steal every second of your attention. We don’t mean to sound drippy. But, every day with your senior dog should be considered a blessing. Make time for an activity that he LOVES. And, enjoy it sans puppy. Your grey-faced love bug will smile from ear to ear to have you all to himself and not be pummeled by a puppy while you massage tender muscles.

Keep up with your senior dog’s feeding and pottying routines.

Yes, it’s hard to adhere to an exhausting puppy potty training schedule. But, your dear senior’s behavior and good habits can go completely awry if you also try to change his schedule to meet the puppy’s needs. Older dogs can develop new anxieties due to loss of senses and other bodily changes. And, change can exacerbate stress. Adding a puppy is a HUGE transition for your distinguished dog and tossing other alterations at him can wreak havoc on his comfort and sense of security.

Hire a trainer.

There are complex hierarchies that develop between two dogs and can rapidly change as the puppy matures. A qualified, positive training and behavior consultant can observe the relationship and coach you through the nuances of the dogs’ interactions to help prevent nasty fights that can have serious detrimental effects on both dogs’ behavior and well being.

Don’t Let Down Your Senior Dog, Here’s How:

You can’t expect an older dog to correct your new puppy for naughty behaviors.

Your adorable puppy will learn loads of information, good and bad, from your cherished senior dog. But, many elderly animals don’t have the personality nor the desire to show a puppy the ropes, let alone be interested in defending themselves against raging puppy teeth for hours on end. We’ve met many sweet senior dogs who gently avoid the puppy’s NEVER ENDING need to PLAY PLAY PLAY. But, the instant the human intervenes and gives the puppy some downtime, the senior dog flops onto the floor into doggie dreamland. Just because your dog isn’t growling at your puppy doesn’t mean he’s having fun.

If the sole reason to bring home another dog is to make your senior dog’s impending passing more comfortable for you, please reconsider.

The thought of making the tough choice to give our senior dog a peaceful passing can suck the life out of us mere humans. And, the dread and anguish are often almost unbearable. But, if you’re preparing yourself for this day, it’s likely your senior dog is coping with major medical issues or struggling to get around. Please, don’t take your attention away from your senior dog is his last days. Your elderly dog deserves to sleep without feeling puppy teeth gnawing on his ear and to mosey along as slow as he needs to on walks, without enduring a four-legged throttle machine every two steps.

Never let your puppy torture your senior dog.

We’ve mentioned this before but, puppies have an endless desire to play, and when your ankles are not beet red due to relentless, razor-sharp-puppy teeth, it’s way too easy to miss that your resident canine is miserable. Remember, your treasured, grey-faced buttercup has had many moments, if not years, without a puppy stealing their food or grabbing their neck 23 hours a day. Please give the new puppy LOTS of downtime.

If your senior dog is dog-aggressive, please rethink bringing home a puppy. Or engage a positive trainer ASAP.

Sometimes, very well-meaning folks decide that a young puppy would be best for dogs who’ve never really liked other dogs. Super young puppies can be VERY appealing to introduce to a less-than-social-older dog. They ooze and melt where ever they go—so sweet and hard to resist. But, one quick growl (or worse) can behaviorally wound a puppy for the remainder of his life. And, as the puppy grows older and becomes more independent and curious, he may decide that stealing a toy is more important than heeding to a snarl. Things can get very scary, very quickly. It’s well worth the investment to hire a trainer BEFORE even considering bringing home a puppy to ensure you make a peaceful pairing.

Ixnay on the “sit” for your senior dog.

Most folks like to start obedience or tricks with new puppies, and we highly encourage positive training. But, sitting over and over again can make a senior dog’s nagging knees and creaky joints super painful. Encourage both dogs to join in training. But, have your elderly dog do something kinder to his joints like “touch” or simple attention. Then, be very clear when saying “sit” that you’re asking the puppy, not both dogs. This will help your sweet senior know he’s still doing right by you and not adding pressure to comply with behavior his aging body just can’t handle any longer.

We hope these tips were helpful to keep your senior dog sane and help your puppy learn boundaries, so everyone in the house enjoys each other as much as possible. We’ve met many amazing senior and puppy pairs over the years who adore each other. Please consider the above advice to assure a new puppy or dog is the right fit for you, your home, and your spectacular senior dog.

Kiddos & Dogs

What could be more gratifying than watching your children frolicking in the back yard with your puppy or rescue dog?

The uninhibited joy of playing, romping, and chasing—without agenda— responsibility and commitment-free sounds amazing, doesn’t it? Unfortunately, that’s not always how interactions transpire between dogs and kids.

Here are a few pointers to ensure your dog stays in your good graces when it comes to your kiddos.

Bringing home baby—you must consider your dog’s history with children. Has your dog been around children? If so, has he avoided or worse, growled, snarled, or lunged at nieces, nephews, and kids on the street? Folks sometimes believe that because the baby will be coming from their loins that the resident pup will automatically love the child. Unfortunately, this isn’t true.

If your dog has EVER shown fear or aggression towards children, it’s best to be uber cautious.

Gates and crates can keep baby and doggie separate. Just make sure when your little one starts toddling around, she doesn’t walk towards a confined, aggressive dog. The restraint can make some dogs MUCH more agitated or exhibit territorial aggression if enclosed in a favorite space.

Be fair to your pup. A new baby is a significant change for him.

Start early and reward for accepting the new sounds and all the novel gear that starts arriving at your home WAY before your wee one enters the world. And, if you plan to give your dog time alone in another room, make sure he has plenty of time to adjust (with lots of treats) for being in that space—especially if he hasn’t been crated or gated in years, if ever.

Remember, this will be a HUGE transition for your precious pup to lose an extensive amount of your attention. So, make a plan to give your skeptical hound one-on-one time when your infant is napping so he doesn’t develop naughty habits out of boredom or anxiety. I’d much rather spend my time playing a game with my dog than cleaning poop off a sofa cushion (it happens).

Closely watch wobbling toddlers.

Once kids start walking and moving around, even the most dependable, friendly dogs can have a limit for how much they can take. And, just because your pup liked the laughing, sometimes crying infant or even wanted to protect him, doesn’t mean your dog will adore tiny hands grabbing his fur or chasing him into a corner over and over again (which you should NEVER allow).

One of my dearest friends in the world, Pam, brought her adorable, ridiculously happy 16-month-old to stay with Gavin and me for the weekend. The two of them were so sweet together, Cannon would wobble away, and Gavin would kiss him. Then, Cannon would laugh like it was the funniest thing in the world and kiss Gavin back. Cannon would then pick up Gavin’s toy and drop it on the ground and giggle again when Gavin grabbed the toy from the floor. It was so lovely to watch—I know and trust that Gavin would NEVER, ever hurt a child.

I still followed Lil’ Big Head around during the love-fest to make sure his happy tail didn’t inadvertently smack poor Cannon and hurt his delicate, baby skin. And, to make sure that Gavin had good experiences around Cannon.

It’s not a child’s responsibility to learn to touch my dog gently. It’s mine.

One afternoon, Cannon decided that rolling cans from the pantry across my living room floor was just a riot. And, I didn’t care that he entertained himself that way. During the first few rolls, if the black beans looked like they were heading in the direction where Gavin was sleeping on the sofa, Pam or I would redirect them.

And, of course, Cannon would chuckle. The sound alone was something Gavin isn’t used to. Even though neither adult allowed the rolling cans to get anywhere near Gavin, he gave me a look that said it was scary for him. So, I scooped Gavin up and put him in my bedroom. He literally sighed with relief when I put him on the bed to be away from the hubbub, disturbing his usual nap time.

Giving your dog his own safe space during the toddler stage is CRITICAL, especially if he’s ever growled, tensed, snarled, cowered, or hid when ANY child was near.

Toddlers move LIGHTNING FAST, and dogs move LIGHTNING FAST. We as adults are, unfortunately, aren’t as quick as either, let alone the two together. It takes less than a second for a child to get hurt.

Teaching all to be gentle. I remember when my nephew, Isaac, was a toddler. He picked up his cat, Echo, by two of his legs. Isaac was just a baby. He didn’t understand that it probably hurt Echo and wasn’t the way animals should ever be treated. My brother Chris used it as a teaching moment and explained to Isaac (who is so kind and gentle to all living things now) why he should never pick up Echo in that way and showed him the right way to pet his kitty.

I’ve seen enough America’s Funniest Home Videos to know that sometimes, parents egg kids on for unkind behavior to animals. Please don’t do this. Kids can be taught early and often how to be compassionate to their pets.

When Isaac was a toddler, Chris or I would always hold his hand whenever he wanted to pet Finn, to make sure his tiny, bobbling hands were gentle.

And, every time my nephew stroked my senior dog’s fur, I praised Isaac for his tender touch. Children learn from repetition and positive reinforcement, just like our four-legged friends. The training techniques are pretty darn similar.

Dogs don’t learn by being chased around all day, being told, “NO!”

And, what can happen if the dog was doted on before baby came home? He can develop negative associations with the two-legged tyke because you always seem angry now that the baby is around. If you doted on your dog before the baby was born, please know that it doesn’t make sense to him when he’s (all of a sudden) the last priority on your list. Please don’t shun and ignore your dog.

Give your kiddos constructive ways to interact with your dog.

If your child is afraid because the new puppy is still nipping all the time, have your two-legged sweeties hold a Kong when interacting with your dog (NEVER do this if your dog has shown even mild signs of toy or food guarding). And, if you hold your child’s hand while your pup is enjoying the stuffed Kong, you give both puppy and child practice interacting in a way that will make everyone happy.

Kids LOVE to play hide ‘n’ seek, and it teaches dogs it’s fun to find the kids. We also like “find” games for children because it’s easy and helps create a cohesive, positive relationship.

We hope this cursory overview of keeping kids and dogs happy and SAFE in the home was helpful. This is a vast topic, and if you plan to bring home a new dog and you have children in the house, or you’re bringing home a baby, and you’re unsure if your dog is going to do well, it’s well worth hiring a professional trainer to come to your home to assure everyone stays safe. And, if there’s even the tiniest bit of concern about aggression, PLEASE bring a positive trainer to your home as soon as possible.

Machine Mindset

Words like “fix”, “stop”, “guaranteed” and “instantly” can be synonymous with dog behavior and training. But, as trainers who have studied and carefully watch our canine counterparts’ behavior; we often cringe when we see those words. Dogs are unbelievably intelligent, highly individual in their motivation and thresholds for stress or distraction; and also deeply emotional. And, what complicates whether or not they actually listen, when the stakes are high, often boils down to the human; and his or her communication capabilities, the amount and quality of the training deposits he or she has made in the desired response and their understanding of whether or not their furry friend is past the point of no return.

We all want our dogs to listen and often, in urban environments like downtown Chicago; paying attention is downright imperative for our pups’ safety. Here are two easy ways to help your dog learn to LOVE listening to you.

Be more engaging in daily interactions. Often, when folks decide they need to began a formal training routine with their dogs, they become SO serious, ALL the time. They push their dogs off the couch, they start shouting “SIT” before they make their dog’s dinner or start yanking on the leash at every street corner. That sounds miserable. When I play fetch with Gavin, I do not stand there like a robot, mindlessly tossing the ball for him; then, looking down at my phone while he tears after his toy only to tower over him barking “DROP IT DROP IT DROP IT“. My time with my dog is precious.

When Lil’ Big Head sits and waits for his ball, I smile, and actually look at him when I tell him he’s a good boy. And when I toss the ball, I do so in a different direction so I keep him guessing; and interested in watching me. And, without fail, EVERY time he runs back to me, I look at him and cheer, “there’s my good boy, yay!” Sometimes, as he’s running back to me, I run away to get him to chase me or hide behind a tree to make it FUN for him to find me (PLEASE, only do activities like this in an enclosed area). And, when he drops the ball, I see the glitter gaze in his eyes. Sometimes I have him do tricks before I throw the ball again and sometimes I toss it for him because he dropped it quickly. But, I ALWAYS praise him for running to me and I am always as engaged with him as he is with me.

When a person walks past the fence, MOST people laugh at Gavin as he jiggles and shows off his balls; racing back and forth or stopping, expectantly, if he thinks they might want to pet or even talk to him. But, there are folks who clearly are afraid of Lil’ Big Head. And, I want to be respectful of my neighbors. So, I call Gavin away when I see someone walking faster, looking down and crossing their arms over their chest. And, EVERY TIME, he races back to my side. Not because I am a drill sergeant; but because Gavin wants to. He has learned that running to me is fun, good things happen and we practice game-like versions of “come” often.

All dogs need an outlet that’s all their own. Being a city dog is a lot of work. And, most dogs struggle, even become frustrated if their only version of exercise is restrained leash walking.

TEN-HUT! Walk in a straight line. Get your nose out of the neighbor’s flowers, soldier! STOP goosing people. DROP THAT!

Ahhhh! So much pressure. And, for most of us, the goal of the walk is to release pent up energy; not to add so much tension that our four-legged family members need to rip up a pillow the instant we walk in the door. Games like hide ‘n’ seek, the muffin pan game, teaching MOVEMENT tricks, even good bones and chews (proactively, of course, not AFTER your dog has nipped you) can give dogs an outlet that allows them to “just be a dog” for a few moments; and can go a long way in making your words matter, later, when you need them most.

Gavin does not love his walks. But, he has learned to LIKE them because we play fetch at the end of most strolls or we do jumping tricks when we get home; if one of our haunts is otherwise occupied. And, once a week, I let him kill a squeaky toy, he never eats pieces and parts. But, because I let him have something that makes him SO HAPPY, he gives me what I want, relaxing walks.

Over It Syndrome

Have you ever had one of those days where you spill coffee on yourself as you race out the door, then, JUST as you notice the giant dent on your rear bumper that was not there last evening when you parked; you feel a SQUISH under your favorite pair of boots that you know has to be dog poop? Sounds a bit overwhelming, doesn’t it? Would you be able to answer a text at the moment you were trying to compose yourself, clean off your shoe and prioritize what you need to do that said, “Can I pick your brain for a second?” Likely not. What if spiders were falling from the sky while all of this was happening; would you be capable of learning ANYTHING new?

While this is not a scenario that would happen to our dogs, we do often put them in VERY overwhelming, quick-happening, stressful situations, like the above; often intensely fear-inducing. Then, we get frustrated because they are not sitting at every street corner. Here’s how you can tell if your dog is “Over It” and how to help him or her.

Dogs can lose their learning capability for a few reasons. Two common causes are THERE IS JUST SO MUCH GOING ON and overwhelming fear. Squirrels, kids running to school, ambulances, commuters racing to the train, other dogs across and down the street; the smells, sights and sounds of all the stimulating happenings can be a lot for dogs to take in. And, often they stop in their tracks, grab the leash out of frustration or simply charge ahead. There is so much to see after all.

But, dogs who are nervous around scooters, the wind or some other stimuli that you have seen him or her jump or run away from, can completely shut down. Literally, they become helpless as they plant themselves on the sidewalk because they can not take anymore. Folks often think their dog is being stubborn when he or she is turning their head away in response to a cue. But, when we see that, we know the poor creature is offering every attempt to avoid a conflict with an involuntary calming signal.

How to help. The easiest thing to do to help a dog that just CAN NOT focus because he or she is too overstimulated or terrified of so many scary monsters coming at them is to carry better treats. Sometimes, when we go outside with a client for the first time, we see a dog’s eyes light up just by using gooey, smelly, high value treats. Biscuits have little smell so they can not compete with the swarm of distractions, including listening to you.

We also find that by adding a fun game or practicing a trick before walks and doing obedience in the house when your dog is not keyed up can make a big impact. If you are only training when your pup is in an aroused, agitated, smell-a-palooza state of mind; not only will your training not succeed, but you could easily damage the bond between you and your four-legged bestie. If you are doing all of the above and your pup just WILL NOT LISTEN, go back home. Your dog does not think he or she is winning by doing so, but, you are giving both yourself and your pup a reset. By continuing to walk when your dog is trying to climb a tree and ignoring “leave it” , wait, that’s not your dog’s favorite activity too? You are reinforcing your dog for ignoring you; and likely, pulling as well.

I recently had to take away Gavin’s FAVORITE game in the world, climbing trees. My sweet little monkey turned into a frenetic, pent-up punk on our walks because I was trying to prevent him from breaking or knocking out another tooth; my savvy with HOW we chased trees was not as great as I thought it was. So, to prevent both of us from getting extremely frustrated; I kept his walks very short and more frequent. And, we always did something that allowed him to get out some serious wiggles before, after or during our walk like: jumping over my legs (please keep your dog’s age and mobility in mind with any jumping game), playing fetch at the tennis courts or killing a squeaky toy when we came home. It made a big difference in his behavior while he was learning and prevented him from becoming completely over it on walks and, with me.

The Controversial Muzzle

“Hannibal Lector”, “Cujo” or my least favorite, “how dare you have that vicious beast out of the house?” while glaring at the person holding the leash. I have heard all those mutterings, and more, when working outside with a client and their muzzled dog.

Muzzles prevent bites, it is that simple. If your dog has bitten another dog, chomped on a human being or nailed you while in an aggressive frenzy; and you live in an environment where basic functions require him or her to pass others, a muzzle prevents you from being reported for another bite. Or worse, having your dog taken from your home. Tight spaces like condominiums where potty breaks require an elevator ride; or neighborhoods like Lakeview and River North where every parkway is fenced off and allows for no escape, this is even more crucial.

You must train your dog to like the muzzle. Before I met this sweet girl; her parents spent extensive time conditioning her to love wearing her muzzle. She only has sad puppy eyes and flat ears because she really dislikes her photo being taken. It is unfair to just slap a muzzle on a dog’s face, race out the door for walk and expect your dog not make every effort to get the stupid gag off their face. The better the treat, the faster your dog will love the muzzle. The basket muzzle does not win any awards for aesthetics. But, it is the best choice for longer-term use like walks and when guests are visiting in the house. The mesh muzzle should ONLY be used for EXTREMELY short durations such as, walking into the groomer, as it restricts a dog’s ability to pant and drink water which can cause your pooch to VERY quickly overheat. VERY dangerous.

Muzzles do not replace training. Let’s say your dog hates other dogs; putting a muzzle on his or her face will only prevent you from being responsible for another dog’s injury. You still have to spend time training your dog to accept other dogs at a distance and teach incompatible behaviors so you are not holding onto a lunging, growling dog who is still exhibiting serious behavioral issues. Behavior modification changes a dog’s innate emotional responses to negative stimuli, alters the choices aggressive dogs make in precarious situations and helps to guide your furry, biting friend to look to you when faced with triggers that cause aggression. Muzzles do not alter the underlying reasons dogs exhibit unwanted behaviors. Keep up or start training. Pronto.

A muzzle does not give you a free pass to put your dog in stressful situations that would normally cause him or her to bite. This is a big one, especially in the city. If your dog needs to wear a muzzle because he has bitten a child, please, do not let kids pet him. He or she should not be running around a dog park wearing a muzzle either. If your dog hates dogs so much that he has to wear a muzzle to be around them; he is miserable at a dog park. Just because it is impossible for him to sink his teeth into another dog does not mean his behavior will not continue to deteriorate.

Be your dog’s advocate. I was out working with a client and her 90+ pound muzzled dog who’s responses to her when stressed are pretty stellar. But, he is not a big fan of children. As he was rocking all of his exercises, a woman pulled up in an SUV a few feet from us. Before she turned around from removing her child from the car seat, her little girl was approaching us. I could tell by my client’s body language she was thinking the same thing I was, “is that tiny human really walking towards a muzzled dog who weighs twice what she weighs?” Then, we both said at the same time, “Ma’am, he does not want to say hi”. Muzzles are like signs, not everyone reads them. So, please be prepared to announce to the world (politely, of course) if your dog needs space from kids, dogs, strollers, whatever trigger that would cause a bite without the muzzle.

If you just rescued a dog and you are freaking out after reading this; do not rush out to buy a muzzle. There are PLENTY of ways you can observe and slowly introduce your new sweetie to the world and PREVENT a bite. Please, never muzzle a puppy. Teach that cutie pie, nipping-machine what you want him or her to chew on. And, there are loads of dogs who would never need a muzzle, please don’t panic if you have well-socialized, friendly pooch. Just give a thumbs up to the folks who need muzzles, they are being responsible and we should all be grateful.

Prioritize to Succeed

Prioritize dog training solutions for better results

Positive dog training equals happy, well-behaved Chicago dogs.

This week, I was in a session with a lovely couple and their adorable puppy who’s wiggle-jiggle, butt-smacking wag matches her endearing personality. The husband asked me to review the chew toy exercise I showed them during our last appointment because they had not done much work with it. Gasp! Actually…I didn’t gasp because mom and dad had a few other behaviors that were much more important to them and their puppy’s development. And, guess what? Because sweet wiggle-worm’s parents REALLY focused on the most important behaviors with their puppy; we were able to briefly review some tweaks to those exercises to further their improvement then quickly move along to focus on chew toy training and leash walking.

Sometimes when we bring home a new puppy or decide it’s time to FINALLY train our 3-year-old bouncing, barking, lunging fur-baby; we can throw or “try” 18 new things on our pooches and do them poorly, haphazardly. At best, it confuses our dog and frustrates us; and, at worst, bad training and/or horrible timing can actually cause a dog’s behavior to more rapidly decline. I truly believe none of our readers want that for their beloved dogs. Here’s a few tidbits to make sure you get with and stick to dog training, without bombarding your favorite furry friend.

Keep it simple. If you are struggling with mild leash reactivity or separation issues; behaviors that we know we need to very quickly improve for our pooches’ well-being and safety. I often see folks buy compression shirts, harnesses, music, medication, herbs, new leashes and different treats all on the same day. While I understand the immediacy of wanting to help an anxious dog not be miserable alone and sometimes extreme behaviors require multiple simultaneous solutions; if we toss a plethora of solutions at the problem, how do we know which one actually worked? Start with better treats on walks or when alone. Even the most serious behavior problems I see in a first session that clients have been previously attempting to modify with biscuits or the same treats the pup has eaten for years, do better with amazing treats. Try a new treat first, THEN if progress is not quick enough, combine with another tool.

Stop “trying”, do it! Our dogs know when we really are not in the game with them. And, when our mental focus is on “trying” to help our dogs succeed, we are definitely not on their team. If we know our dog is TERRIFIED of people, our job is not to TRY to keep people away from coming at our pooch like Godzilla. Our role while strolling along with our canine best bud is to reward for any person coming at our pup so he learns that people are not so scary. And, to silently repeat to ourselves over and over “if someone looks like they might be coming at my dog, I need to be prepared” so we are ready when it happens.

Less blah blah blah. I am frequently asked “what’s the command for that?” Unfortunately, the more we chatter to our dogs, especially when dealing with very troublesome behaviors, the less our words mean. Rather than putting a label that means absolutely nothing to our dog who pulls, let’s just say “yes” and reward when our dog stops. If we spend all our time rewarding pull, walk back to my side; we actually reward the series of behaviors but, we have to start at step one. And, that first stage is reward for the right choice. Once our pup gets the game, then only reward for not pulling at all, simple “yes” when our pooch stops pulling.

On Gavin’s first walk in my neighborhood, he truly resembled a pogo stick, shooting himself straight into the air and onto every single person who walked past us. One of the guys doing construction on our street tried to give me his card so he could help me train my dog, double gasp! I was a little mortified but it was our first walk together and my new buddy had no interest in even the best treats I had to offer. Now, he only jumps on 1 out of 20 people who lean in to pet him. Progress I accept because I had other priorities for him. But, now, NOT jumping is a priority for me and I intend for the process to be delightful for Gavin and I. As it should be. If we set our expectations too high or try too many things at the same time, we get overwhelmed, then our dog fails.

Dread in the City

One of the saddest behaviors we encounter is an extremely fearful dog living in the heart of Chicago. Sure, many dogs absolutely love their walks. But, a dog who has innate, negative physical responses to cars, buses, the El, other dogs and people coming at them; the patience needed to help these dogs learn that the HUNDREDS of terrifying things they have to endure daily is not AS scary requires building trust and a whole lot of cheerleading. Here are a few things to consider and work on with your fearful dog:

Inside training games and team building. If your dog is tucking her tail, running away or refusing to move every time she walks outside of your condo or apartment; walks are MISERABLE. Fearful dogs need to feel protected by their human and teaching trust does not come by dragging your dog out the door and down the sidewalk . Training cues like “touch” and “find” are simple exercises for confidence; and games and tricks remind your dog that you are a team and will build long-term responses outside but, patience is absolutely critical. Just because a dog is not growling, lunging or barking at people, does not mean they do not need help, badly.

Power does matter when it comes to treats. In a perfect world, a dog who is absolutely terrified of other dogs, kids, bikes, skateboards, etc. would have a backyard to do her business or live on a quiet street but life does not always work that way. To help create better associations with outside time; you must use the most amazing treats you can possibly find. My “go to” trifecta is hot dogs, cheddar cheese and some homemade meatballs (some store bought contain onions, which are bad for dogs) cut up into TEENY, TINY pieces. The variety prevents boredom and the smellier the treats, the more likely she is to eat them when in an extremely stressed state. We like to teach the in and out game; if the dog takes even one step towards the entrance, reward! Walks back to the safety of home, no reward. If you sit or crouch down, it takes some of the pressure off too. Do this when not going outside for a necessary walk and treat EVERY. SINGLE. STEP. towards the big, scary world like your dog just won the World Series. But, don’t cheer too loud, it might scare her.

Put yourself in your dog’s paws. Take a second to think about something you are truly afraid of and how it affects you. Could you learn a new word in a different language if your heart was racing, sweat was dripping down your face and adrenaline charging through your body? Likely not, and with more research proving the complexity of our dogs’ emotions, we need to consider how brutal is can be to force a dog to be bombarded by scary thing after scary thing. Watch for small signs of fear too; if you can give your dog a break before she completely shuts down, it makes a big difference. Busier neighborhoods like Lakeview, Old Town, Gold Coast and even Ravenswood, Logan Square and Lincoln Park; especially near the train stations are harder for scaredy dogs than quieter pockets of Chicago.

A little help from friends. For some dogs, the Thundershirt can help behavior modification move along; but PLEASE use common sense with varying weather conditions. It is a fabulous tool for chilly and cold weather walks but a heavy shirt on an already panting dog in warmer temperatures can be downright dangerous. Herbal supplements are also a nice choice to ease your dog’s mind and body a bit while working on training, we like Homeopet Anxiety Relief but always check with your veterinarian before administering an herbal remedy. If you live in an area with holistic veterinarian; there are so many wonderful herbs and flower essences, but we highly recommend working with a professional to help you find the right, safe combination for your dog. Speaking of your veterinarian, talk to him or her. If your dog is truly that terrified, you might need some western medical intervention. Again, a good veterinarian will help you devise a plan appropriate for your dog; and when possible, phase out additional help once you create new, positive associations with the world.

Fearful dogs need patience, thoughtful introductions and extensive trust and confidence building exercises. Be kind, consistent and do not be afraid to ask for help.

Staring is Rude

Wait, hold the phone. We told you eye contact was good but now it’s not? So confusing! Fido looking at his mom with soft eyes, a relaxed face and a giant grin; all super awesome. Fifi staring at the cat, frozen stance and a tense mouth; not good at all. There is no need for a pet dog to stare at anyone or anything with beady eyes. And, we have met quite a few canines who will growl, snap or bite if a person or another animal stares back at them. Here are a few ways to diffuse staring and keep your pooch safe, happy and a welcome member of society:

Even if your dog is crazy friendly, if you pass a person who clearly does not want their dog to say hello; it not enough just to pass by the dog. Keeping your dogs eyes on you vs. the reactive dog will prevent the neighborhood BarkFest from coming to your hood. Construction in Chicago is miserable enough.

Tight spaces like some obedience classes, veterinary waiting rooms and daycare entrances can be tricky and stressful for many dogs. Encouraging your dog to look at you AND not allow him to stare at other dogs can make your life and those around you easier. Do not be distracted by the cute dog to your right, keep your eyes on your dog and praise him for doing the same.

If you are introducing your rescue dog or puppy to a child or another animal for the first time; do not let him stare. The longer eyes are locked, the more quickly a negative situation can escalate. Using gates and other management tools are best and keep your distance until he or she are looking to you without too much work on either end of the leash. And no collar corrections, please. If your dog is super tense, yanking at their neck sure is not going to help him or her relax.

Perhaps looking at you is not possible for your dog, it is too much for him or her to handle around distractions. Back up on expectations and reward for glancing, not staring at the person, dog or squirrel. If you need to cue it, say “what’s that?” and “yes” for a quick glance and you will find your dog starts to look up more at you than if you tried way too hard to get eye contact. And, never ever use food treats near another dog. A nice distance is best.

Living with a dog means sometimes being out and about with the world, no matter how fabulous your backyard might be. We have to remember that there is a lot of communication going on at the end of our leashes. Even if we live with the nicest dog in the world, allowing him to stare can cause ruckus and potentially teach him to pick up others’ bad behaviors we would rather not see. Be a dear and do not let your dog stare.

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